Watches & Wonders 2023：Guests’ Picks 錶展心水之選（中）

24小時顯示的 GMT腕錶，錶面佈局實用、有趣又漂亮，自動上鍊機芯配玫瑰金錶殼，絕對的內外兼備，一戴上手就不再想除下來。

腕錶本身帶懐舊味道，新的綠色錶盤、加羅馬與阿拉伯數字的混合時標設計，將它的吸引力倍升，45毫米的尺寸也是稱心如意。

向來喜歡金鋼腕錶，這枚GMT正中下懷，系列首見的灰色與黑色搭配的陶質錶圈，配珠鏈錶帶別具風味，不算浮誇很有型。

I had the chance to understand the Freak One in depth from the UN team and people who designed it. It really is an amazing watch in terms of design and watchmaking. I love seeing the components of a watch and they’ve used the movement’s components to tell the time, which is quite genius. There is no crown, so you set the time with the bezel. The process of unlocking the bezel, setting the time, and locking the bezel is so smooth and satisfying.

I was really surprised, maybe even shocked when I saw the Puzzle Day Date and Celebration Dial OP. Love it or hate it, these two designs were the talk of W&W this year and showed that Rolex is starting to speak to a new generation of watch enthusiasts. Personally, I like the Celebration Dial because of how colorful and playful the dial design is, especially using the same colors from their stella dial OPs.

I’m a sucker for Gerald Gentas famous 3 iconic designs: the Royal Oak 5402, the Nautilus 3700 and the IWC Ingenieur 1832. The original Royal Oak and Nautilus design DNA is still so apparent in their current watches, but I was always curious to know why the Ingenieur didn’t stick to its roots like the other two. I love that they have reconnected the Ingenieur back to its story and connection to Gerald Genta and used the original design of the Ingenieur as inspiration for their newest model.

機芯鏤空得相當徹底，令微型擺陀的小飛機顯得非常突出，視覺效果已經滿分，而且設計很有心思，能夠如此直接帶出腕錶歷史，亦值得一讚。

Reverso不但是積家的招牌作，更是鐘錶界的經典，很值得擁有。兩個錶盤都同樣吸引，那藍灰色來得相當獨特，而且只有時、分針非常簡潔，而鏤空一面更是漂亮到不得了。

星空主題很討人喜歡，而錶盤的用色感覺很祥和恬靜。錶盤其實花了不少功夫，例如砂金石刻意造到半透明，珍珠貝母底下透出其他顏色以營造極光效果，不失工藝感。

勞力士製作新一代內填琺瑯錶已意想不到，他們更不弄大多數珍稀絕藝錶正經八百的主題而是一見心情開朗的構圖。Emojis代日期絕對是神來之筆！

兩地時間錶多是工具、運動型，難得有這紳士款。錶面、錶殼造型有歷史出處，簡易操作借鏡之前的Travel Time，機芯基礎跟In Line萬年曆同種，集各家絕技於一身。

方形鏤通錶少，方形鏤通自動錶更少，Santos-Dumont款的更是破天荒。細小機芯竟能用上不礙欣賞機件的迷你陀還要雕琢成Dumont設計的早年滑翔機式樣。投降！

Yes, it’s very expensive, and will be impossible to obtain, but the Odysseus Chronograph is very representative of the Lange spirit and attention to detail. I didn’t expect Lange to be able to retain the day and date display while integrating a chronograph complication using the same two pushers.

Only the second time that Rolex have presented a titanium watch, the monochromatic look and satin finish make it very understated especially in contrast with some of the brand’s other novelties. It’s a large 42mm diameter, but it’s very comfortable on the wrist thanks to the lightweight material.

The new Brunito finish on the eSteel case is intriguing, and goes very well with the dark green dial. With the California markings only, it makes the watch look larger than the other Brunito finished Radiomir presented this year. If there is a “classic” Panerai look, this one comes the closest.

宇舶獨家的鍍鋁碳纖維材質，新的灰色金屬光澤比以前的顏色都更好看，這次還首度以該材質製作金鏈帶，全錶僅重60多公克，戴起來有難以想像的輕盈，內部搭載HUB 6035陀飛輪自動上鍊機芯，12點鐘微型擺陀，搭配6點位置的飛行陀飛輪，有它獨特的美感。

許久未見的沛納海加州面再次出現，第一次看見仿舊感的錶殼質感，是利用了PVD黑色錶殼，加入人手拋磨完成的視覺效果，如同腕錶使用後留下的痕跡，另外搭配了正夯的綠色面盤搭配藍鋼指針，可說集結了所有當紅的經典元素。

朗格運動款式Odysseus，第一枚自動上鍊計時腕錶，兩根計時指針置於中心位置，面盤簡潔清晰，計時按把整合在錶殼，讓錶殼線條完整，又能透過按鈕調整日期與星期非常簡單，最厲害的是，當計時數據超過30分鐘，計時秒針在歸零時，會用以迅雷不及的速度旋轉超過30圈來歸零，也是從來都沒看過的設計。

仔細看小小的日期窗口中Kermit the Frog繪工非常精緻，沒有因為童趣而造得隨便。每月只有一天出現隱藏的可愛小青蛙，其他日子輕鬆當回成熟大人。

我喜歡小眾款式；像這枚大路牌子一改風格的少見款式，看來更是小眾不一樣。色彩繽紛的可愛波點，質感高級精美，反差強烈而有趣。

此並非一般鑲石奢華作，專利Spin-Stones尖晶石彎曲精準切割，沿錶圈排列出紫藍調漸變色，寶石甚至加上夜光塗層，霓虹光芒神秘動人。

I like compact elegant dress watches. A few years ago I was thrilled to discover the Chopard L.U.C X The Rake Limited Edition 1860 also in 36.5mm that was sadly only made in 10 pieces for the lucky few. The sequel to that which was the Salmon Flying Tourbillon was just eye-wateringly expensive. Happy to see such a timeless design had made it to their main catalogue.

Again, I am biased towards smaller watches. Back when Black Bay 58 was launched I was already tempted by its attractive bang for the buck. Now that they have managed to shave off another 0.8mm off the thickness compared to the BB58 makes it even more attractive for smaller wrists like mine. And I respect that they are keeping the price lower than the BB58 while so many other brands are hiking prices.

Okay, I know it’s announced two weeks too late to be remotely related to Watches and Wonders. But I feel the mind blowing details and finishing on this piece of art has earned the piece a mention. Concave black polished screws, Gold filled engravings, symmetrical movement architecture, mesmerising 2.5Hz oversized balance wheel, I could go on…