2022年度GPHG日內瓦鐘錶大賞
Text: 楊文翰
今年的GPHG(Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève)日內瓦鐘錶大賞頒獎禮已於瑞士時間昨天晚上舉行,各個獎項亦已名花有主。寫了這個大賞已經十年了,不想再去評論它的認受性有多高,公信力有多大,各個獎項的結果有多公平,那些都不重要,最重要是搞的人高興,得獎的人開心,各大品牌又樂於參與,令鐘錶業有點活力和生氣,還算不錯吧。不過,還是令我感到不太舒服的,就是獎項越來越多,越來越重複,名目越來越無厘頭,令我想起某電台每年一度的歌曲頒獎禮。一如既往,我不會逐個獎項去評論,只挑選我自己喜歡的,寫兩句個人感想,不喜勿插。
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/The-winners-2-1024x683.jpg)
Ladies’ Watch Prize
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic
這兩年Parmigiani的風頭一時無兩,坦白講,我是有點始料不及的。不過再看看他們這兩年推出的產品的確充滿活力,新任CEO Guido Terreni實在應記一功。尤其是今年推出的Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante,更加好評如潮,一錶難求,我滿以為它得獎應該沒什麼懸念,但結果是Tonda PF Automatic在女裝腕獎項中勝出,是安慰獎嗎?
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_tonda_automatique_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Ladies’ & Men’s Complication Watch Prize
Hermès Arceau Le temps voyageur
先戴頭盔,愛馬仕的Arceau Le temps voyageur是我今年最喜歡的腕錶之一,只差在買38毫米的鋼殼藍面好,還是41毫米的鉑金加鈦金屬殼黑面好。一直以為自己喜歡藍面細裝,但戴上手黑面更襯自己。問題來了,38毫米就一定是女裝錶嗎?男士戴也很合適啊。還有,38和41毫米分別拿下男、女裝複雜錶獎項?對不起,女裝還可以,男裝我會頒給Parmigiani的GMT Rattrapante。
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_Arceau_le_temps_voyageur_002_blue-1024x1024.jpg)
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_Arceau_le_temps_voyageur_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Men’s Watch Prize
Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II
Akrivia是這兩年在獨立製錶品牌界別中的天之驕子,而且錶實在造得好,得獎都沒有什麼值得好驚訝了。但就連機芯都還在修改中,錶就可以得獎?
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_chronometre_contemporain_001-1024x1024.jpg)
Mechanical Exception Watch Prize
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1
很高興Ferdinand Berthoud再次憑FB 2RSM.2-1得獎,我實在太喜歡這個品牌了,無論創意、複雜性和造工,它都是頂級的,我一直認為這個品牌被大家忽視了,尤其是這兩年獨立製錶品牌大行其道,為何不紅呢?可能是錶實在太大?這是我覺得唯一美中不足的地方。
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_FB_2RSM_2_1_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Chronograph Watch Prize
Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
由我來寫Grönefeld得獎,好像有欠專業,不過錶實在設計好、造工好,再加上近年這對荷蘭兄弟做生意的手法越來越高明,得獎應該算合理吧。雖然我覺得他們的Grönograaf定價太過分,太離地,但聽聞錶早已賣光了。再加上沒太大創意的新錶1969 DeltaWorks「潛水錶」,他們未來十年的生意額,應該不用擔心。
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_Gronograf_tantal_002_v2-1024x1024.jpg)
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize
Voutilainen Ji-Ku
如果無數錯,這個已經是Kari的第9個GPHG獎座,對一個獨立製錶人來說,應該算是數一數二。今次亦是他第4次奪得Artistic Crafts Watch Prize,又是跟日本漆藝大師北村辰夫Tatsuo Kitamura合作的作品,看來Kari應該要把獎座劈開一半,分給Kitamura-san了。
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_Ji_Ku_002-1024x1024.jpg)
其餘各個獎項得獎名單如下:
“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix
MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_Legacy_Machine_Sequential_EVO_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Iconic Watch Prize
TAG Heuer Monaco X Gulf
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_monaco_x_gulf_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Tourbillon Watch Prize
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_Pioneer_Cylindrical_skeleton_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize
Krayon Anywhere
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_Anywhere_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Diver’s Watch Prize
Tudor Pelagos FXD
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_pelagos_FXD_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Jewellery Watch Prize
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_serpenti_misteriosi_haute_joaillerie_001-1024x1024.jpg)
“Petite Aiguille” Prize
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_nuit_fantastique_dune_edition_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Challenge Watch Prize
M.A.D. Editions, M.A.D.1 Red
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_MAD_RED_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Mechanical Clock Prize
Van Cleef & Arpels Fontaine Aux Oiseaux automaton
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_automate_fontaine_aux_oiseaux_001-1024x1024.jpg)
Innovation Prize
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_montre_lady_arpels_heures_florales_cerisier_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Audacity Prize
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_octo_finissimo_10_anniversaire_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Chronometry Prize
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_Tourbillon_a_force_constante_Kodo_002-1024x1024.jpg)
“Horological Revelation” Prize
Sylvain Pinaud Origine
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/gphg2022_origine_002-1024x1024.jpg)
Special Jury Prize
François Junod automaton-maker and sculptor
![](https://www.anotherwatchmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/Francois-Junod-1024x662.jpg)